
FROM THE PUBLISHER
Connie Blumhardt
RECENTLY, AN INDUSTRY FRIEND and I were discussing
the roles of larger national and international coffee
organizations in advancing and supporting the specialty
coffee business. It’s a subject that seems
to be on the forefront of many people’s minds;
it was even a topic at the National Coffee Conference
(NCA) held last March in Boca Raton, Fla.
The NCA was one of the organizations we were discussing;
the other was the International Coffee Organization.
Both of these organizations certainly have strong
ties and have historically represented the interests
of what I will call “big market coffee.” However,
both have also taken notice of the emergence of specialty
coffee, and have made some attempts to include the
interests of the specialty producer, importer, roaster
and retailer. The NCA recently announced a partnership
with Cup of Excellence which I believe is an excellent
way to get some of the large NCA members to begin
recognizing and purchasing specialty coffees.
However, the influence of big market coffee companies
over these organizations leads them to activities
which require us to be at the very least skeptical
of their aims. For example, the NCA runs an unbiased-sounding
website (www.coffeescience.org) dedicated solely to
promoting the health benefits of coffee. As people
who sell coffee for a living, we are responsible for
the claims we make about the effects of our product
on people’s health.
The tea industry has already seen the effects of this,
and suffered two recent setbacks from the U.S. Food
and Drug Administration (FDA). In May of 2006, the
FDA issued a letter in response to an industry labeling
request, stating that “FDA concludes that there
is no credible evidence to support qualified health
claims for green tea or green tea extract and a reduction
of a number of risk factors associated with cardiovascular
disease.” Eleven months earlier, the FDA had
already issued a similar statement regarding the lack
of evidence that drinking green tea reduces the risk
of cancer. These statements, which were picked up
in the national press, came after years of the tea
industry promoting the health benefits of green tea.
This is clearly an area where coffee professionals
and organizations that represent the coffee industry
must tread very carefully.
The ICO is energized in a different direction, which
also requires some healthy skepticism from specialty
coffee roasters. They are in a full-throttle campaign
to increase coffee consumption among consumers. This
effort is aimed at increasing consumption in producing
countries and in emerging markets, as well as in mature
markets. If promotion of increasing the quality of
coffee to increase consumption is a major component
of this effort, then it does not inherently run counter
to the desires of specialty coffee roasters. However,
the term “quality” has many meanings depending
on who makes the definition and for what purpose.
In some circles, quality coffee is defined as any
coffee which lacks other components (such as chicory
or sugar). Skepticism in this case is warranted, the
specialty coffee industry cannot sacrifice the overall
quality of coffee in the name of increasing consumption.
Obviously, there is a need in the coffee world for
these large organizations. However, they do not always
represent the interests and goals of the specialty
coffee roaster. Which of course leads to the question:
How can those interested in advancing specialty coffee
influence these organizations? I’m not sure
what the answer is to this question, but I know nothing
will happen if I don’t take the first step.
Regards,
Connie

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